The day the music died

As the sun makes its steady descent behind the mountain peak on which the tiny Andean village of Iruya clings, preparations for that evening’s festival have not begun. “I don’t know if there’s going to be a festival tonight,” says Gloria Federico, owner of Hostal del Café.” The orchestra hasn’t arrived yet.” The townsfolk don’tRead more

San Antonio de Areco

San Antonio de Areco is a small town on La Pampa, the plains of Argentina. Along the narrow sidewalks, regional workshops sell silverware, rope and leather crafted using traditional methods originally used by the gauchos. Gauchos are cowboys who roam the plains herding cattle. Gauchos were romanticized in Argentine literature as symbols of freedom. SanRead more

La Boca

La Boca is a colorful neighborhood. Partly because of the brighly painted buildings, but also because it’s not a very safe area to wander around by yourself. Most visitors remain within a four block radius of El Caminito, the most famous street in the neighborhood. A carnival-like atmosphere permeates La Boca during the weekend fair.Read more

Tigre

In the 16th century, Tigre was small port at the mouth of the Parana River delta. Later, it became a summer getaway place for elite Portenos. As Buenos Aires grew, eventually Tigre was swallowed by urban sprawl. As a result, it lies just 20 miles from the center of Buenos Aires and can be reachedRead more

Why Buenos Aires truly never sleeps

Yerba Mate is a kind of tea served traditionally in a hollowed out gourd called a mate (see photo) and sipped through a straw-like device called a bombilla. Introduced to the world by the Guarani Indians of South America, it is now common to see people in Buenos Aires carry their mate and a thermosRead more

Staying close to home

By air or land, traveling in Argentina this week has had its problems. Porteños were stranded on Tuesday when subway workers failed to report to work. Forced to find alternative means of transportation, long lines formed at bus stops and 250,000 more cars crowded the city streets. Meanwhile underground, a battle for workers’ rights ragedRead more

Connecting on a cellular level

Have you ever wanted to use your existing mobile phone abroad without racking up all the international charges? I have figured out how to do it—at least in Argentina. I have a contract with T-Mobile and I received my phone as part of the package. The thing is, most big cell phone companies provide theirRead more

Competing for customers in Colonia

Colonia de Sacramento, Uruguay, is a quiet, laid back kind of town with cobblestone streets lined with sidewalk cafes. Located just across the Rio de la Plata from Buenos Aires, visiting Colonia makes for a nice escape from the hustle and bustle of the big city—whether its for the weekend or just for the day.Read more

A bustling necropolis

La Recoleta Cemetery is a city of the dead, yet it is teeming with life. Feral four-legged felines wander the labyrinthine passages and sleep in, on or between the mausoleums—the final resting places of presidents, dictators, artists and rich merchants. Perhaps the most-visited resident is Eva Peron. On any given day, the narrow pathway leadingRead more

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