Feb 13

Stay safe while traveling solo

Posted on 13 February, 2013 by admin

It was a typical Sunday morning. My husband, Chris, and I sat down to read the newspaper and one headline screamed at us: “U.S. Tourist Killed in Istanbul.”

In January, Sarai Sierra, a blossoming photographer, was killed by a blow to the head while traveling alone in Turkey. Her body, tucked into a hidden corner of the ancient city walls, was found 12 days after she was supposed to board a plane to come home to her husband and two children.

Chris turned to me with that look on his face. The one that says, “That could be you.” His expression filled with worry and sadness.

I had just booked a solo trip through Eastern Europe the day before.

Solo travel has its risks, but harm can come to any of us at any time. The potential threat doesn’t keep us from getting in our cars and driving to work every day, even though the lifetime chance of dying in a car accident is roughly 1 in 98.

To experience the joy of traveling, I accept the remote possibility of danger, but I do my best to prevent it by following these safety tips:

• There is safety in numbers, especially at night. Staying at hostel makes it easier to meet other travelers — some of whom are also women traveling solo. In Brazil, I shared a dorm with a middle-aged woman from São Paulo, who joined me for some sightseeing and late-night meals.

• Never tell strangers you’re traveling solo. A friend of mine often refers to a faux husband when the topic comes up with strangers when she’s overseas. She goes a step further and wears a wedding band. Most people don’t question when she tells them he’s back at the hotel waiting for her.

• Dress modestly. Clothes that you think are conservative, can be considered scandalous by some cultures. In some African nations, exposed knees are no no. I’ve seen topless women walking around in rural villages, but their skirts reached their ankles. Get to know the local customs before you go and dress accordingly (although I recommend keeping your top on, too).

• Carry a whistle or pepper spray. One time in Nicaragua, a drunk guy lunged at me and another woman as we walked down the street in broad daylight. Luckily, she had pepper spray close at hand. Before we needed to use it, though, a taxi appeared and we jumped inside, although the drunk still managed to slap me through the window as we sped off. It was nice to know we had a line of defense should we need it.

• Stay alert and be confident. Even if I don’t know where I am, I pretend I do and walk decisively while keeping an eye on who or what is ahead or behind me. Of course, never pull out a map on a street corner. Smart phones make the task a little less conspicuous, but I still duck into a shop or café when I need to look more closely.

The rewards of going it alone outweigh the risks

When I travel, I try to strike a careful balance between not letting my guard down while remaining open minded to the opportunities that present themselves, such as having dinner with a group of fellow travelers I’ve just met, learning new things or being randomly invited to a wedding in the local community. These sorts of things are possible when you travel with others, of course. But, if you’re attention is focused on a spouse or friend, you’re less likely to strike up a conversation with a local to learn more about their culture.

Going solo into the world means I can make decisions about what I want to do, when I want to do it. I can spend hours photographing a blade of grass or exploring the local ethnographic museum. The choice is mine and there’s no compromise.

Every year, thousands of women choose to travel alone and they come home safe. Unfortunately, Serai Sierra wasn’t one of them. It’s okay to be nervous before setting out alone, but if you’re like me, the promise of an enriching experience makes it all worthwhile.

The next time I travel alone, there’s no doubt my thoughts will go to Sarai Sierra. Photos she took during her time in Istanbul are available for purchase and the proceeds will go to her children. I bought a couple of her photos to remind me that there is beauty in this world and she wasn’t afraid to seek it.
To purchase a photo, visit her instacanv.as page.

Jan 28

Historic documents destroyed by retreating insurgents in Mali

Posted on 28 January, 2013 by admin

Gone forever are these 12th-century manuscripts from the Centre de Recherches Historiques Ahmed Baba in Timbuktu / Photo by Laura Watilo Blake

These delicate pages of text survived for centuries in the dry desert air in Timbuktu, a remote outpost of the Sahara Desert in Mali, which was once a wealthy trading center. Today, the manuscripts are believed to have been destroyed by fire as French and African forces pushed back into the territory that has been under rebel control for nearly a year.

As they fled, the retreating insurgents set fire to the Centre de Recherches Historiques Ahmed Baba, which housed more than 23,000 Islamic religious, historical and scientific texts from all over the world.

A former employee of the library, who fled before the rebels took the city, explained the importance of the texts to The Guardian newspaper. He said the manuscripts were important because they exploded the myth that “black Africa” had only an oral history. “You just need to look at the manuscripts to realise how wrong this is,” Seydou Traoré says in the article.

It’s too early to determine the extent of the fire damage, but it’s safe to say that a piece of history is gone forever and that realization is heartbreaking.

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Read about my trip to Timbuktu in 2010: here.

Jan 24

A different way of seeing Stonehenge

Posted on 24 January, 2013 by admin

Photography tips for shooting the iconic tourist attraction

Ever since I was a child, I’ve been fascinated by the mystery of Stonehenge, a circle of upright stones in a grassy field in the English countryside. When I finally saw it for myself, I was no less awestruck, although the mystique is marred by the intersection of two nearby highways, a barrier rope to keep people from getting too close to the rocks and the steady stream of tourist buses that unload tourists there throughout the day.

Nearly one million people visit the site every year, which means it’s not easy to photograph the stone structure unless you want a few tourists walking into the shot. Either give in and photograph scenes showing the reality of what you find there or follow these few tips to getting better photographs from your visit.

BEST CASE SCENARIO

Pre-book Stone Circle Access tickets. A select number of visitors can visit Stonehenge before or after regular hours by applying for Stone Circle Access here and emailing it to stonecircleaccess@english-heritage.org.uk. The ticket price of £16.30 give you the opportunity to go beyond the barrier and walk among the large stones. The view from within the circle offers unique photography opportunities, although you do have to contend with up to 25 other visitors at the same time. If you plan on going during the earlier time slot, it will afford you more time to walk around the site once it opens to the public.

NEXT BEST THING

Go during off-peak times.The tourist attraction opens at 9:30 a.m. every day, while closing time varies from 4 p.m. in the winter to 7 p.m. in the busy summer season. Aim to arrive when the site opens or an hour before it closes. During the middle of the day, you’ll likely encounter more tourists and the light isn’t the greatest for photography. If you happen to visit in the winter, you’ll benefit from fewer crowds and better light since the sun rises later and sets earlier.

WORST CASE SCENARIO

Make the most of it. When all else fails, angle for a better perspective on this often-photographed structure. One way to crop out people in the background is by crouching down and pointing the camera at the subject from just above ground level. Not only do you remove unwanted foreground and background distractions, the structure stands out against the sky. Shooting silhouettes is another way to enhance the drama of the scene, whether or not people are in the photo. Finally, embrace having people in your photographs to provide scale. Many landscape photographers will remove people from their images, but seeing them in the photo below gives the viewer an idea about the size of the stones.

Jan 22

Radio show features philanthropic deeds

Posted on 22 January, 2013 by admin

The Intentional Traveler interview with Far-Flung Travels highlights work with Drink Local Drink Tap in Uganda

Canadian Michael McCarthy has been covering the topic of philanthropic travel for nearly 20 years and is currently in the second season of his radio show “The Intentional Traveler.” He says, “we are all ambassadors for our own cultures and our own selves. Intentional travelers consciously wander the world with the goal of meeting other people and trying to leave the planet a better place. The goal is to acquire techniques leading to conscious awareness during life’s journey, and to share them with other travelers. In the end, the journey is to find our highest self.”

On December 22, 2012, he sat down with me and Erin Huber, director of Drink Local Drink Tap, to talk about global water issues and what we’ve been doing about it in Uganda and how we made it happen. Listen to it here:

For more radio show episodes, visit the Apple’s iTunes store.

How I got involved in making a documentary film that highlights philanthropic efforts abroad

It takes more than a village in Uganda without water to make a documentary film. As it turns out, it also requires about two years of work, 7,000 miles, 38,500 milligrams of malaria medication, countless volunteer hours and generous portions of mashed bananas three times per day. At least that’s what I discovered while creating “Making Waves: From Cleveland to Uganda,” which will premiere in March. The documentary follows Erin Huber, director of Drink Local. Drink Tap., as she works toward her goal of striking “water gold” in Africa.

As soon as Erin told me about her plan to raise funds for a water source in Uganda, I knew I wanted to do something to help, so I hinted that I could help her document the story through photography and film to help put a face on the global water issue. Together, we enlisted the help of LESS Productions’ Tom Kondilas, an experienced feature-length filmmaker.

Living in the first world, it’s hard to imagine what people on the other side of the globe are experiencing on a day-to-day basis, but being able to show it to audiences here really puts it all into perspective. You might not think getting a drink of water out of the faucet is a luxury until you see the hours of planning and physical labor involved into doing the same thing in rural Uganda. For 11 weeks over two summers, we walked alongside the school students on their way to the closest water source and even attempted to carry their heavy water containers. It wasn’t easy for us grown adults.

Lack of water may have been the reason we went to Uganda, but we discovered it wasn’t the only obstacle rural Ugandans face everyday. Most of the people of Mulajje are subsistence farmers and had little extra money to pay for the food, fuel and medicine that would make their lives a little bit better. Families have been destroyed by AIDS, malaria and other diseases and many of the students we met were orphaned — some HIV positive.

Despite their overwhelming difficulties, we encountered loving and hospitable people who were willing to offer us what little they had, whether it was fresh mango plucked right from the tree in their yard or a heaping portion of mashed bananas, the staple food consumed at every meal. So, it was gratifying when water finally flowed out of the new water source on school property last June. We may have helped only 600 of the 1.1 billion people without access to water, but hopefully the film will be a platform for inspiring others to take up the cause and help others gain access to life’s most fundamental human need — however they can, wherever they can.

For more information, or to help fund more water projects in Uganda, visit www.drinklocaldrinktap.org.

Jan 17

Don’t leave home without these travel necessities . . .

Posted on 17 January, 2013 by admin

. . . plus, tips for packing lighter and smarter

Now that airlines are starting to charge for everything, including carry-on luggage, it’s even more essential to travel with less.

You may not be able to take everything you want, but making the right choices ahead of time means you won’t hit the airlines’ maximum weight allowances at the time of departure — and won’t leave you stranded without something you really need.

While the necessities vary among travelers, I’ve curated a list of my own must-have accessories when I’m on the road. And as you will see, many of these items take up very little space and often serve multiple purposes.

For a three-day trek in the backcountry of Mali, I carried only the Lowepro Versapak 20 shown here (measuring 19 x 12 x 8 inches). My camera gear took up most of the space, but I had everything on this list packed inside.

In no particular order, here are my travel must-haves:

1. HEAD LAMP: I’ve been to enough foreign locales to know the power isn’t always reliable, so I bring a flashlight, whether I’m camping or staying at an upscale hotel. But, supplemental light also comes in handy when you least expect it, which is why it’s a good idea to have a small flashlight with you any time of the day. It comes in handy to illuminate the dark passageways and rooms of a Mayan Temple or shed light on your path if a late afternoon hike takes longer than expected.

2. DRY SHAMPOO: Dry shampoo is more than just a tool for people battling oily hair. I’ll use it when a shower isn’t readily available (when I’m camping, for example), but it also helps to eliminate perspiration. This two-in-one product doubles as a light-weight deodorant.

3. NECK PILLOW: Unless you’re a first-class traveler, it’s hard to get comfortable enough to sleep on long-haul flights. I’ve tested all kinds of travel pillows, and I’ve found the best are the type that go all the way around your neck for added support (try the Komfort Kollar or the ObusForme). I also use mine throughout a trip to take the place of a cervical pillow when the hotel pillows are too thick.

4. UNIVERSAL TRAVEL ADAPTER: While most electronic devices now are dual-voltage, the plug doesn’t always match the socket, which is why it’s imperative to travel with a universal travel adapter. I like to use one with an added USB port, which gives you the power to charge two devices at the same time.

5. SPACE-SAVER BAGS: Pack twice the amount by placing clothes in space-saving bags that roll to squeeze out excess air. My trick is to pack my luggage without using the space bags. That way, I’ll have more room to fit souvenirs on the way home. The bags also keep dirty or wet clothes away from clean garments.

6. COMPACT HAIR BRUSH: A hair brush doesn’t take up that much room, but every little bit counts. One that folds in on itself doesn’t get caught on clothes you’ve packed next to it, either.

7. FINGER PUPPETS: When a tourist gives something to a begging child, it only encourages more begging, which is why I try my hardest to resist those big eyes and pouting lips while on the streets of the world. However, I pack a few finger puppets in my bag to entertain kids I meet along the way — usually on a long bus ride or in a restaurant. I first bought a sackful of the knitted puppets when I lived in Peru, but I restocked my dwindling supply on eBay. In addition to the many fingers that have been transformed into wonderful play things for giggling children to enjoy, these Peruvian-born creations have been last seen at the top of a prayer-flag pole in the Himalayas, in a floating village in Tonle Sap Lake in Cambodia and on a Canadian bike race.

8. DUCT TAPE: When your backpack gets slashed by would-be thieves, you’ll understand the virtues of traveling with heavy-duty tape. There are millions of other applications for this miracle product, including using it as a way to restrain unruly airplane passengers, as we saw earlier this month on an Icelandic Air flight.

9. TRAVEL-SIZE LAUNDRY PACKETS: Traveling light means taking fewer items of clothing, which, in turns, means you have to wash clothes more often. Unless you plan on having the hotel do the dirty work for you, individual laundry-soap pouches come in handy for washing clothes in the sink. It helps to have a couple days in one place to give the clothes time to dry before wearing or repacking them.

10. SAFETY PIN: Pablo Neruda paid homage to common items in his poetry, so it’s hard to believe he didn’t write an ode to the simple spring mechanism and clasp known as the safety pin. If he had, perhaps it would have gone something like this: “Magnificent safety pin, you come to me when I’m most exposed, your metallic grin ready to consume the threadbare fabric of my being. With hope comes the fear that one wrong move might produce a warm, red stain from deep within.” Needless to say, this tiny device can rescue you from a wardrobe malfunction, but it comes in handy to remove SIM cards from iPhones, too.

11. HIDDEN TRAVEL WALLET: A purse dangling over your shoulder looks like low-hanging fruit — ripe for the picking. For peace of mind, I wear a hidden clip-on travel pouch containing my passport (or a copy if I’m not in transit), credit cards, insurance cards and cash. If someone tries to reach down my pants to get it, it won’t take long for me to figure it out and react accordingly.

12. HARD SUNGLASS CASE: Protecting your eyes from the sun is important, but a case to protect your sunglasses is crucial. Avoid crunch time with a hard case to carry them when not on your head.

13. TRAVEL JOURNAL: Prior to posting every single thought on the internet, travelers through the centuries jotted notes about their adventures in their personal travel diaries. I argue they still serve a purpose in today’s over-connected world. I use mine to keep air and hotel reservation numbers, jot quick thoughts when I don’t have access to my electronic devices and take notes for stories (a journalist always has pen and paper ready, right?), but you can also uses the blank pages as toilet paper if you’re in a bind.

14. CAMERA: I feel naked without my camera. I’ve read tales of photographers leaving theirs behind to shoot only with a smartphone, but I can’t bring myself to try it like Dean Holland did when he went to Vietnam. If you’re deciding between a point-and-shoot camera and a smartphone — the phone is a great option, but not for a DSLR-wielding snap-happy photographer. I have to admit, it would lighten the load significantly. Oh well, maybe someday.

15. UNLOCKED SMARTPHONE: If you have an unlocked phone, you can buy a SIM card in the country you’re traveling in for less than the cost of an international roaming voice and data plan with your domestic provider. Most mobile carriers will provide unlock codes for your dual-band phone, but contact them several weeks before traveling. Then, research and price plans in the country of your destination and most likely you’ll find a kiosk at the airport when you land.

16. SNACKS: Packing a few morsels in your travel bag can stave off hunger in the event of a plane delay or a long wait between meals.

17. SCARF: The scarf is, by far, the best accessory in your travel bag. Use it around your neck or waist to doll up an otherwise plain outfit. Use it on your head in an Islamic temple or use it as cover-up or towel at the beach. And if you’re in a particularly polluted city, use it to protect yourself from belching fumes.
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So, what are your must-haves on the road? Get the conversation going on Facebook or Twitter.

Dec 05

Trends in Travel for 2013

Posted on 5 December, 2012 by admin

‘Tis the season for planning travel for the coming year and all the respected travel authorities are busy compiling their lists of favorite destinations. I, too, have a list of far-flung places to recommend in 2013.

The aurora borealis dances over the Chena Hot Springs Aurora Ice Museum. Photo courtesy of Travis Knauss.

Fairbanks, Alaska
Why it’s on the radar: Fairbanks is one of the best places to view to view the Northern Lights, also known as the aurora borealis. NASA scientists have predicted that solar flares and the accompanying geomagnetic disturbances will peak in 2013, making it an ideal time to witness the phenomenon. While the chance of seeing the aurora borealis depends on many factors, the best opportunity is during a new moon between December and March. You might be thinking to yourself, “Damn, it’s cold and dark that time of year in Alaska,” and you’d be right. That’s why I would stay at Chena Hot Springs Resort, so I could soothe the chill away in the 105-degree water.

The view of Red Square in Moscow from Saint Basil’s Cathedral. Photo by Christophe Meneboeuf.

Russia
Why it’s on the radar: This past September, Russia and the U.S. signed an agreement that reduces visa fees for visitors in an effort to boost business and improve tourism between the two countries. Both countries will issue three-year multiple-entry visas for $20, instead of $100 The visa allows visitors to stay for up to six months at a time. Business travelers will no longer require a letter of invitation, but tourists will still need to show advance accommodation reservations and arrangements with a tour operator. The iconic domed spires of St. Basil’s Cathedral in Moscow’s Red Square should be on the itinerary. Stay at Metropol, a historic hotel that once served as living quarters and offices for the Soviets in the early 20th century.

The Gangnam District of Seoul, South Korea (Wikipedia).

South Korea
Why it’s on the radar: South Korean music artist Psy dominated the music charts around the globe in 2012 with his hit song “Gangnam Style,” which refers to the typical lifestyle of those who live and work in the affluent Gangnam District, also known as the Beverly Hills of Seoul.

South Korea is one of the most expensive places to visit in the world, so if you’re planning on a visit, bring plenty of cash to live it up like a local in the posh cafes, high-end retail stores and music-thumping night clubs. If you’re looking for something priceless, then head to the new Simone Handbag Museum, which has hundreds of purses on display, some of which date back to the 1500s. Stay at the Novotel Ambassador Gangnam Hotel and book the “Gangnam Style” tour package, which includes a one-night stay, breakfast and a tour of Gangnam attractions for $276.

The island of Hvar, off the coast of Croatia in the Adriatic Sea (sobrecroacia.com).

Croatia
Why it’s on the radar: Croatia is set to become a member of the European Union in July 2013, but won’t adopt the Euro for another two years, which makes it still an affordable option for visiting Europe. Head straight for the coast to experience Croatia at its absolute best. Ferries and cruise ships shuttle passengers back, forth and between the thousands of charming islands that dot the Dalmatian Coast. If you can visit just one, try Hvar, which named one of the 10 most beautiful islands in the world by Condé Nast Traveller. Better yet, charter your own boat to explore the small islands and spend the days swimming and sunbathing. the Dive Center Hvar rents all types of boats, kayaks and equipment.

A view of the Imbabura Volcano from Las Palmeras in Otavalo, Ecuador. Photo by Laura Watilo Blake

Ecuador
Why it’s on the radar: After being devastated by flooding in the 1990s, train travel through Ecuador is poised for a resurgence as repairs near completion. When finished in the summer of 2013, travelers will once again be able to travel by rail from Quito to the coastal city of Guayaquil, a jumping off point for visits to the Galapagos Islands. Other infrastructure improvements includes a new airport in Quito, which is set to open in February. For more information and to see train timetables, visit ecuadorbytrain.com.

Nov 09

Inside the Cleveland Museum of Art

Posted on 9 November, 2012 by admin

Inside the new Cleveland Museum of Art
The best way to photograph “Work No. 965: Half the air in a given space” by British artist Martin Creed is to immerse yourself within it. The exhibit, which runs through November 25 at the Cleveland Museum of Art, is a large room filled halfway with purple balloons that swallow those who enter.

“People come out of the room exhilarated,” a docent said to me before I tried it.

It was, in fact, energizing from the static electricity being generated in the room. It was an odd sensation, especially when you realized another person was nearby. First you, feel the pressure of the displaced balloons coming in your direction, then you might hear a giggle or scream. Finally, parts of a body may appear — or not.

The new and improved Cleveland Museum of Art is finally coming into view as it heads toward the completion of a $350 million expansion project. In addition to new east and west wings and renovated gallery spaces, the Ames Family Atrium, promises to be a draw for people year-round. The free, covered 39,000-square-foot piazza, hailed as “Cleveland’s Pantheon,” is the largest indoor free public space in Northeast Ohio. The Provenance café and restaurant and the museum store are all located under its giant dome.

The covered atrium at the Cleveland Museum of Art

Nov 04

Delving into the Mayan Underworld

Posted on 4 November, 2012 by admin

It’s hard to say what has been my favorite place to visit in my travels, but when someone asks me, I always mention the Cayo District in Belize. I stayed at a well-run lodge in the jungle, fed toucans, ate great food and met incredible people. But it was the adventure of visiting Actun Tunichil Maknal (aka ATM or the Cave of the Stone Tomb) that sticks with me the most.

The three-mile-long cave, located in the Tapir Mountain Nature Reserve, has become an underground Mayan museum of sorts that requires hiking and spelunking through waist-high water to reach. The Mayans used the cave for ceremonial purposes and offerings to the underworld Gods are scattered around the cave. All the artifacts in the cave have been left where the archaeologists found them, which offers a unique perspective — and lots of adventure — for anyone wanting to visit.

Since my visit in 2000, at least two of my friends have gone based on my recommendation. One of my frequent travel companions visited the cave this week. Unfortunately, she couldn’t take photos ”due to the fact that stupid tourists kept on dropping their cameras on artifacts, including one of the skulls,” she reports. “Cameras are strictly prohibited on ATM tours.”

That got me digging into the archives to find these photos taken in 2000 when I was there.

Our guide called this the “Tree of Life” and it marks the beginning of a 45-minute hike to the cave.

HIking to the entrance of Actun Tunichil Maknal.

The entrance to Actun Tunichil Maknal.

The first challenge is swimming into the cave. Now we’re off into the depths.

After squeezing through tight spaces, we remove our shoes, climb a steep cliff and find ourselves in “The Cathedral,” a large open space with stalgmites and stalagtites.

The Mayans would sacrifice their people to the underworld gods.

We hiked up a rickety wooden ladder to reach “The Crystal Maiden” aka “The Princess.” Archaeologists concluded that she was hit over the head and left to die, but she woke up and tried to find her way out of the cave in the darkness. Instead, she lost her footing and fell to her death in this spot.

The Boot Pot was intended for sacrificing babies. Petroglyphs in the cave show this being done. Pots are usually broken into pieces to release the spirits, but this one of the few that are intact.

Most lodges will arrange tours to Actun Tunichil Muknal. I went with Mayawalk Tours, one of the original tour companies to offer the caving adventure.

Oct 03

Drinking in Dublin

Posted on 3 October, 2012 by admin

I’m no lush, but it’s hard to go to Ireland and not have a drink or two or ten. Alcohol consumption is one of the country’s favorite pastimes, says our taxi driver as we leave the airport. “But, I don’t drink,” he adds. “I get a lot of strange looks when I tell that to people.”

I understand how he feels because I don’t drink beer, but whiskey is another story altogether. So, while the Guinness Factory tour isn’t high on my list of activities, I make it a point to visit the Old Jameson Distillery in the heart of Dublin.

Located on a cobblestone side street, the nearly 250-year-old building plays host to visitors from around the world coming to the epicenter of whiskey production in Ireland. John Jameson founded the distillery in 1780 and by the beginning of the 1800s, he was head of the biggest distillery in the world.

While the facility no longer is used for producing the liquid gold that made the Jameson family very wealthy — those operations moved to Cork — tours provide the history of the brand, shows how whiskey is made step by step and gives visitors an opportunity to try the smooth, triple-filtered product. Eight lucky volunteers on each tour participate in a tasting that pits Jameson against Johnny Walker Black and America’s own Jack Daniels.

I’m pretty sure my hand went up first to volunteer.

After watching “the greatest film ever made in the history of the world” — a period drama/infomercial that introduces visitors to the production process during the early days, through though the eyes of a journalist coming to interview Jameson — we were guided from room to room through the process of converting barley, malt and water into a the spirit that was first created by monks trying to make perfume. Jameson is made with varying amounts of raw barley and sprouted and roasted barley that is mixed together and fermented, then mixed and stored in wooden barrels that previously were used either to store sherry in Spain or whiskey in the United States. In all, there are 37 different varieties of Jameson created by the various combinations, including the Reserve label, sold only at the Dublin facility.

As the tour comes to a close, a television screen suddenly becomes a window and through it, we see the tasting room bar covered with cups of mixed drinks. I heading through the door first (one of the perks of being chosen as a taster), I scoop up a Jameson and cranberry before finding a seat at the tasting table.

Sitting between a Russian and Swede, we smell, then taste, the first sample at the urging of the guide. This is not a blind taste test at all; he tells us right away the Jameson is first. It smells like honey and vanilla and the taste is smooth. The second sample is Jack Daniels, which is made with corn. The whiskey is distilled only once and matured in new white oak barrels. It is sweet. Finally, we taste the Johnny Walker Black that smells smoky. It’s a 12-year-old whiskey that is distilled twice.

Well, which one do you like best, the guide asks. “There’s no wrong answer, but one right one.”

Laughing, most of us hold the Jameson in front of us, but some rebels chose poorly.

In the end, I walked — crookedly — out of the distillery with a certificate in my hand to prove that I’m a certifiable whiskey drinker now.

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The Old Jameson Distillery, Bow St., Smithfield, Dublin 7; +353 1 807 2355, jamesonwhisky.com
Open Monday to Saturday from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; One-hour tours cost 13 euro for adults

Sep 12

On track at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway

Posted on 12 September, 2012 by admin

It took less than two minutes to circle the two-and-a-half-mile oval track at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway in a Chevy Camaro convertible pace car, but it took 30 minutes to brush the tangles out of my hair. It was worth it.

Our driver Martin Plowman was a cheeky Brit, who had earlier told a crowd of journalists that he was plucked from the streets to drive us around the track. In reality, he’s an experienced racing driver currently competing in the American LeMans series of racing.

“These drivers are athletes,” says Chris Grahl of Visit Indy. “They do cardio, and core strength workouts that help them stay fit. And they will do exercises to help them stay mentally fit while racing, too.”

Plowman trains five days a week and follows a strict muscle-building and recovery diet that helps increase endurance, improve strength and resist g-forces from the high speeds during races.

“We were doing 100 in the turn,” said Plowman. “I imagine a race car will do double that speed.”

Visitors can get on track in a couple of ways. The Indianapolis Motor Speedway Hall of Fame Museum offers a Grounds Tour on select dates through from March to November. The 90-minute tour includes IMS landmarks normally open only to officials, drivers and teams during events. Guests visit the timing-and-scoring suite in the Pagoda, the Media Center, Victory Podium, Gasoline Alley garage area and take a ride around the famed 2.5-mile IMS oval in one of the museum’s tour buses, concluding with a stop at the “Yard of Bricks” at the start/finish line.

But if it’s speed you are looking for, sign up for the Indy Racing Experience, a two-seat ride that gives passengers the opportunity to experience top speeds that are normally only reached by elite racing drivers. A modified vehicle allows a passenger to sit behind the driver, but in every other way, it is a true IZOD IndyCar and it can reach up to 180 miles per hour. The cost for the experience is $499.

Visit the Hall of Fame Museum at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway:
The Hall of Fame Museum is open 363 days a year (closed Thanksgiving Day and Christmas Day). Hours are 9 a.m.-5 p.m. from March through October and 10 a.m.-4 p.m. from November through February. Extended hours are featured during May activities. Admission is $5 for adults, $3 for ages 6-15, and children under age 6 are admitted free.
indianapolismotorspeedway.com
(317) 492-6784

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far-flung travels

Dispatches from Cleveland, Ohio-based photographer and journalist Laura Watilo Blake, specializing in cultural and soft adventure aimed at inspiring exploration, even if it's in your own backyard