The Thrill of the Hunt: Tracking Chimps in the Ugandan Rainforest

After 17 years of working with chimpanzees at the Kaniyo Pabidi eco-tourism site, forest ranger Sauda Birungi knows a lot about their behavior, which makes tracking them in Uganda’s Budongo Forest easier. “Sometimes people think they have moved, but they are really staying quiet until the threat has passed,” she says to me and myRead more

Three Days in Dogon Country

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I am sitting in a room watching a Dogon funeral celebration taking place in the village of Banani on national television. The hunters of the village are running around in the fields shooting off their guns, while people sing. The Dogon staff at Mac’s Refuge, where I’ve been staying, are commenting that they recognize theRead more

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