Cooped Up

We’ve had a few breaks in the unending cold front that seems to have parked itself over northern Morocco. The town of Chefchaoun dried out briefly, allowing us to hike up to the ruins of a mosque on the mountainside overlooking the town. When we returned to the town, we allowed ourselves to get lostRead more

The Moroccan Hammam

Almost every city in the Arabic world has a hamman, or a public bathhouse, where the locals come for their scrubdown. In Chefchaoun, the men have the run of the bathhouse in the morning, and women come in the afternoon and evening. It was around 6 p.m. when I decided to try out the hammamRead more

Washing Away the Desert Sand

The bus driver awoke me to say we had arrived in Fes. He asked me if I was continuing on to Chefchaouen, but I wasn’t. Then I was. After reading a description of the small mountain village in the Lonely Planet guide, I convinced Jennifer to skip Fes and go directly there. Afterall, it wasRead more

I’ve Been Through the Desert on a Camel with No Name

What do you get when you cross three Brits, four Americans, one Arab and a minibus? A cross between an iPod commercial and the film “Little Miss Sunshine.” Our trip to the Sahara Desert got off to a good start with Rock the Kasbah blaring on the van’s speakers. One of our fellow travelers hadRead more

Thank God the French Got Here First

There’s no better reason to go shopping in the souks of Marrakesh than when you’ve lost your baggage and you are desperately seeking underwear. No, it wasn’t my luggage that was misplaced, but that of my travel companion, Jennifer. So, here we were on our first few hours in Morocco, scouring the market for aRead more

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